“Dera Loiwalika” la ku Bolivia

M’CHAKA cha 1906, pulezidenti wa bungwe lina la ku Britain lofufuza malo (Royal Geographical Society) anakambirana ndi msilikali wina dzina lake Percy Harrison Fawcett kuti ku South America kuyenera kuti kuli zinthu zimene zingawabweretsere ndalama zambiri. Anatenga mapu n’kumuuza kuti: “Taona dera ili. Mapuwa akusonyeza kuti derali lilibe chilichonse. Ndikuganiza kuti anthu sakudziwa zambiri zokhudza derali.” Kenako anam’patsa msilikaliyo ntchito yokafufuza deralo ndipo anavomera.

M’mabuku ake, Fawcett anafotokoza za mapiri a ku Bolivia okhala ndi mitengo yambirimbiri amene panopo amadziwika kuti mapiri a Huanchaca. Iye anawatchula malowa kuti “dera loiwalika.” * Ena amaganiza kuti mabuku ndi zithunzi zimene Fawcett anajambula ndi zimene zinalimbikitsa Sir Arthur Conan Doyle wa ku Britain kuti alembe buku la mutu wakuti The Lost World (Dera Loiwalika). Bukuli limafotokoza za dera longopeka limene anthu ake anali ooneka ngati anyani ndiponso za nyama zinazake zoopsa zimene ena amaganiza kuti zimapezekabe masiku ano. Panopa, dera lokongola limeneli likuphatikizapo nkhalango ya Kempff Mercado, yomwe inaikidwa m’gulu la malo ofunika kwambiri padziko lonse m’chaka cha 2000. *

Nkhalangoyi ndi yaikulu masikweya kilomita 15,000 ndipo ili kumpoto chakummawa kwa dziko la Bolivia, m’malire ndi dziko la Brazil. Ili ndi zigawo zisanu zomwe zili ndi mitengo ya mitundu yosiyanasiyana. Ndipo phiri la Huanchaca lili ndi malo aakulu masikweya kilomita 5,180 ndipo ndi lalitali mamita 550 kupita m’mwamba. Kuti muyende m’phepete mwa phirili, kummawa kwa nkhalango ya Noel Kempff Mercado, mungayende mtunda wa makilomita 150 kuti mulimalize phirili. Mitsinje yambiri yomwe imachokera m’phirili ndiponso m’malo ozungulira phirili, ili ndi mathithi okwana 20. Mathithiwa akuphatikizapo mathithi a Salto Susana, Arco Iris, Federico Ahlfeld, Gemelas, ndiponso mathithi a El Encanto.

Mmene Ulendo Wathu Unayambira

Anthu ambiri oona malo amakopeka ndi nkhalangoyi chifukwa ili kwayokha ndipo ambiri mwa alendowa amabwera pa ndege kuchokera mumzinda wa Santa Cruz, womwe uli m’chigawo chapakati cha dziko la Bolivia. Tinaganiza zoyenda pa galimoto ulendo wamakilomita 700 n’cholinga chakuti tiwadziwe bwino madera a m’dzikoli. Titafika pamalo ena tinaona zinthu pamsewu kutsogolo kwathu zomwe zinkaoneka ngati masamba ambirimbiri okongola. Koma titayandikira tinaona kuti anali agulugufe, ndipo panalinso abuluzi ambirimbiri amene ankayendayenda n’kumagwira agulugufewo.

Titafika kunkhalangoko, tinakumana ndi munthu wotionetsa malo dzina lake Guido. Munthuyu tinakumana naye m’mudzi wotchedwa La Florida womwe uli m’mphepete mwa mtsinje wa Paragua. Guido anatiwolotsa kupita tsidya lina la mtsinjewo. Titawoloka tinayenda pang’ono kupita kumalo ena otchedwa Los Fierros. Popita kumalowa tinaona nkhandwe ndiponso mbalame ya mtundu wa lumbe. Mbalameyi inali yokongola ndipo inkauluka mumsewu kutsogolo kwathu.

 M’mawa tinadzuka msanga chifukwa cha phokoso la mbalame zinayi zikuluzikulu zokongola. Mbalamezi zinali m’mwamba kwambiri mumtengo wina panja pa nyumba yathu ndipo zinkangokhala ngati zikuti, “Takulandirani kwathu kuno!” Zimene zinachitika patsiku loyambali zinangosonyezeratu kuti tiona zinthu zambiri zosangalatsa.

Kuli Zamoyo Zambiri

Nkhalango ya Noel Kempff Mercado ili ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya mbalame yoposa 600, mitundu 139 ya nyama (kuposa mitundu yonse ya nyama zimene zimapezeka ku North America), mitundu 74 ya zokwawa, mitundu pafupifupi 3,000 ya agulugufe, komanso tizilombo tina tambirimbiri. Kuli mitundu 20 ya mbalame zotchedwa chinkhwe, ziwombankhanga zikuluzikulu, mbalame zinazake zooneka ngati nkhwali, ndiponso mbalame zooneka ngati nthengu koma zokhala ndi tsumba lofiira. Munthu wina wosamalira zachilengedwe komanso wodziwa za mbalame, dzina lake Nick Acheson, anatiuza kuti “anthu ochokera kumadera osiyanasiyana amabwera ku nkhalangoyi kudzaona mbalame za mtundu wa timba ndi mpheta.”

Kunkhalangoku kumapezeka nyama monga mimbulu, mphalapala, nyama zinazake zooneka ngati nyalugwe, zina zooneka ngati nguluwe, komanso nyama zinazake zimene zimadya nyerere. Mitsinje yambirimbiri yomwe imayambira m’nkhalangoyi komanso yomwe ili m’mbali mwake ilinso ndi zamoyo zambiri. Muli mitundu 62 ya nyama zimene zimakhala m’madzi ndi pamtunda, mitundu 254 ya nsomba, ng’ona, akatumbu, nyama zikuluzikulu zooneka ngati mbira ndiponso nyama zapinki za mtundu wa dolphin. Nkhalangoyi ndi malo abwino kwambiri kwa anthu onse okonda zinthu zachilengedwe.

Popeza kuti m’derali muli akambuku, anthu ambiri odzaona malo amachita mantha ndipo ifenso tinkachita mantha. Mkulu woyang’anira malo a Los Fierros anatiuza zimene zinachitika tsiku loyamba limene anagona pamalowa. Iye anati: “Ndinadzidzimuka pakati pa usiku chifukwa choganiza kuti nyama zonse zikungondiyang’ana. Nditasuzumira pawindo la kanyumba kamene ndinagona, ndinaona nyama inayake yooneka ngati nyalugwe ikungondiyang’anitsitsa. Windoli linali longotchinga ndi kaukonde koteteza kuti tizilombo touluka tisalowe. Ndinachita mantha kwambiri moti ndinadzitsekera m’bafa mpaka m’mawa.” Zimene ananena mkuluyu zinawonjezera mantha athu.

Koma kenako mkuluyu anapitiriza kuti: “Patapita nthawi ndinazindikira kuti nyamayi si yoopsa ndipo imabwera usiku uliwonse. Nthawi zambiri kunja kukamatentha nyama za mtunduwu zimafika pafupi ndi nyumba za alendo n’kugona pakhonde kuti zizimva kuzizira. Zimenezi ndi zochititsa mantha kwambiri kwa alendo amene sanazolowere zimenezi. Poyamba tinkakhala ndi mfuti, makamaka tikamaonetsa anthu malowa usiku, koma masiku ano tinasiya. Nyamazi sizinasinthe koma ifeyo ndi amene tazindikira kuti nyamazi si zoopsa.” Komabe mkuluyu anatichenjeza kuti tisadzayerekeze kuputa nyama iliyonse.

Tinadutsa M’nkhalango Kupita ku Mathithi a El Encanto

Kunkhalangoyi kuli mathithi ambiri amene amakopa alendo. Tinanyamuka m’mawa kwambiri kupita ku mathithi a El Encanto limodzi  ndi Guido. Mathithiwa ndi aatali mamita 80 kuchokera paphiri la Huanchaca kufika pansi. Ulendowu unali wa makilomita 6 ndipo tinadutsa m’nkhalango yowirira kwambiri, momwe tinaona anyani a mitundu yosiyanasiyana ali m’mitengo. Mitundu ina ya anyaniwa inali ndi manja komanso miyendo yaitali kwambiri. Ndipo ina inkalira mofuula kwambiri moti munthu angamve phokoso lawo ali pa mtunda wa makilomita atatu. Mbalame ina yooneka ngati nkhukutembo ya khosi lofiira inatidutsa kutsogolo uku ikufunafuna zakudya. Titafika pafupi ndi mtsinje wina, Guido anationetsa mapazi a nyama. Iye atangoona mapaziwo anadziwa kuti anali a mphalapala, nyama inayake yokhala ngati nguluwe, ndi nyama zina zooneka ngati akambuku. Tinazindikira kuti m’tchiremo munabisala nyama zambiri zimene zinkangotiyang’ana tikamadutsa.

M’nkhalangoyi muli mitengo yambiri moti nyamazi sizivutika kubisala. Ndipo akuti m’derali muli mitundu pafupifupi 4,000 ya zomera, kuphatikizapo maluwa. Tinaona maluwa okongola kwambiri a mitundu yosiyanasiyana ndipo tinadya zipatso zokoma kwambiri zomwe zinamera m’mphepete mwa njira. Zipatso zina zinali zooneka ngati mateme komanso zina zangati magalagadeya.

Titangowoloka kamtsinje kenakake, tinayamba kumva phokoso la mathithi ndipo linkawonjezereka pamene timapitiriza ulendowo. Kenako tinatulukira pamalo enaake osawirira kwambiri ndipo nthawi yomweyo tinaona mathithi a El Encanto. Mathithiwa ndi aakulu kwambiri ndipo pansi pake pankangooneka utsi wokhawokha. Miyala ya pamathithipo inali ndi maluwa okongola kwambiri. Guido anatiuza kuti: “Kunja kukatentha, pamalowa pamabwera anyani kudzasamba.” Atangonena zimenezi, ifenso tinaganiza zosamba. Panthawi yonseyi tinkasangalala ndi kukongola kwa malowa komanso phokoso lamadzi.

Ntchito Yosamalira Malowa

Noel Kempff Mercado ndi amene anayambitsa ntchito yosamalira malowa. Iye anamwalira mu 1986 koma ntchitoyi ikupitirirabe. Mu 1996, dziko la Bolivia linagwirizana ndi dziko la United States kuti ateteze mahekitala 880,000 a nkhalango ndi kulimbikitsa chitukuko popanda kuwononga chilengedwe. M’chaka chotsatira, boma la Bolivia ndi makampani ena atatu anayambitsa ntchito yoteteza chilengedwe, imene mwa zina inaletsa anthu kudula mitengo m’derali. Dera limeneli analiphatikiza ku nkhalango ya Noel Kempff Mercado ndipo kukula kwa nkhalangoyi kunawirikiza kawiri.

Zimene tinaona paulendowu zinatithandiza kuyamikira Mlengi chifukwa cha zinthu zambiri zokongola zimene analenga padziko lapansi. Lemba la Salmo 104:24 limati: “Ntchito zanu zichulukadi, Yehova! Munazichita zonse mwanzeru; dziko lapansi lidzala nacho chuma chanu.” Ndithudi, pamene tinkayenda m’tinjira ta mu “dera loiwalika” limeneli, tinaona kuti ndi bwino kuyenda pang’onopang’ono kuti tisangalale mokwanira ndi kukongola kwa derali. Tinazindikiranso kuti sitikufunika kutenga chilichonse mu nkhalangoyi kupatulapo zithunzi zimene tinajambula ndi kuyesetsa kukumbukira zimene tinaona.

[Mawu a M’munsi]

[Chithunzi patsamba 16]

Maluwa ofiira ndiponso apepo

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Mathithi a Ahlfeld, omwe ali mkati mwa nkhalangoyi

[Chithunzi patsamba 17]

Mbalame zokongola

[Chithunzi patsamba 17]

Mathithi a El Encanto

[Mawu a Chithunzi patsamba 15]

Aerial: ® 2004 Hermes Justiniano/BoliviaNature.com

[Mawu a Chithunzi patsamba 17]

Orchid, Ahlfeld waterfall, and macaws: ® 2004 Hermes Justiniano/BoliviaNature.com